What to Do in Troyes, France | 37 Beautiful Sights

You don’t need to drown yourself in bubbly on a visit to Champagne-Ardenne, which belongs to France’s Grand Est region in the east of France.

For instance, if you’re wondering what to do in Troyes that doesn’t involve champagne, there are plenty of options—like exploring a romantic historic centre steeped in Gothic cathedrals and half-timbered houses.

Troyes is a small French city in the department of Aube that can be easily explored on foot in one or two days.

In spite of its compact size, this is not a city to race through, ticking off a checklist of sights. Rather, take your time to wander through the streets in the historic centre, enjoy some of the key sights like the magnificent cathedral at your own pace, and sit down to some nice meals with (why not?) a glass of champagne.

Table of Contents (click to view)

• Why visit Troyes?
• Where to stay in Troyes
• 37 things to do in Troyes
  • 1. Cathédrale Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul de Troyes (Troyes Cathedral)
  • 2. Basilique Saint-Urbain de Troyes (Basilica of Saint Urbain of Troyes)
  • 3. Cité du Vitrail (City of Stained Glass) / Apothicairerie de l’Hôtel Dieu-le-Compte (Apothecary of Dieu-le-Compte Hotel)
  • 4. Église Sainte-Madeleine (Saint Madeleine Church)
  • 5. Rue Champeaux (Champeaux Street)
  • 6. Rue Émile Zola (Émile Zola Street)
  • 7. Place Maréchal Foch (Marshal Foch Square)
  • 8. Ruelle des Chats (Cat Alley)
  • 9. Musée Saint-Loup (Saint Loup Museum)
  • 10. Hôtel de Vauluisant (Vauluisant Hotel)
  • 11. Maison de l’Outil et de la Pensée Ouvrière (House of the Tool and Workers’ Thought)
  • 12. Hôtel Juvénal des Ursins (Juvénal des Ursins Hotel)
  • 13. Jardin Juvénal des Ursins (Juvénal des Ursins Garden)
  • 14. Hôtel du Petit Louvre (Little Louvre Hotel)
  • 15. Église Saint-Nizier (Saint Nizier Church)
  • 16. Maison Rachi à Troyes (Rachi House in Troyes)
  • 17. Place de la Libération (Liberation Square)
  • 18. Place du Marché au Pain (Bread Market Square)
  • 19. Église Saint-Jean-au-Marché (Church of Saint Jean at the Market)
  • 20. Hôtel de Marisy (Marisy Hotel)
  • 21. Marché des Halles (Troyes Market)
  • 22. Jardin des Innocents (Garden of the Innocents)
  • 23. Musée d’Art Moderne (Museum of Modern Art)
  • 24. Quai de la Fontaine (Quay of the Fountain)
  • 25. La Ribambelle Joyeuse (The Joyous Bunch)
  • 26. La jeune fille qui donne un baiser (The Young Girl Who Gives a Kiss)
  • 27. Attendez-moi (Wait for Me)
  • 28. Le Coeur de Troyes (The Heart of Troyes)
  • 29. Souffle de vie (Breath of Life)
  • 30. Maison du Dauphin (House of the Dauphin)
  • 31. Square des Trois Godets (Square of the Three Pots)
  • 32. Le Cellier Saint Pierre (The Saint Pierre Cellar)
  • 33. Église Saint-Pantaléon (Saint Pantaléon Church)
  • 34. Place Jean Jaurès (Jean Jaurès Square)
  • 35. Église Notre-Dame des Trévois (Church of our Lady of Trévois)
  • 36. Passages Centre d’Art Contemporain (Passages Centre of Contemporary Art)
  • 37. Parc des Moulins (Park of the Mills)
• Day trips from Troyes

Why visit Troyes?

• Good introduction to the Champagne-Ardenne region – The Grand Est region is made up of three smaller historic regions—Lorraine, Alsace and Champagne-Ardenne. Troyes is the second-largest city in Champagne-Ardenne, after Reims.
• Can be done as a day trip from Paris – Troyes is about an hour and a half by train from Paris and is thus doable as a day trip from the capital.
• Well-preserved historic centre – The medieval centre of Troyes is replete with half-timbered houses and Gothic churches, and is also a major destination for stained glass.
• Factory outlets – Troyes attracts shoppers due to its proximity to factory outlets such as McArthur Glen Troyes, Marques City, Village de Marques, and Marque Avenue Troyes.

37 things to do in Troyes

I’ve tried to order this list of things to do in Troyes according to their importance to the first-time visitor. But this is subjective, so please feel free to pick and choose the sights that interest you most. If you’re strapped for time, I would suggest visiting the top 10 sights on the list. The real highlight is the historic centre, so get ready to wander around a bit.

1. Cathédrale Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul de Troyes (Troyes Cathedral)

The magnificent Cathédrale Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul de Troyes (Troyes Cathedral) is a Gothic structure whose construction began in the 12^th or 13^th century, following the destruction by fire of an earlier cathedral. Over the centuries, it has been repaired and added to, and part of its façade is now in the Gothic Flamboyant style.

Troyes is one of France’s most important cities for stained glass. The cathedral is notable for its 1,600 m² of stained glass, with a large volume dating from the 13^th to 16^th centuries.

2. Basilique Saint-Urbain de Troyes (Basilica of Saint Urbain of Troyes)

This impressive medieval church is a splendid example of 13th-century Gothic architecture. Although construction on the church began in the 13^th century, it was delayed repeatedly and only completed in the early 20^th century.

The church has a rich collection of stained-glass windows and is also an excellent example of Rayonnant Gothic architecture, with its refined elements.

3. Cité du Vitrail (City of Stained Glass) / Apothicairerie de l’Hôtel Dieu-le-Compte (Apothecary of Dieu-le-Compte Hotel)

Troyes and the department of Aube constitute the stained glass capital of the world. In fact, about 40% of the stained-glass windows in the world are located in the Aube. You can learn more about the history of stained glass, how it is made and see some stunning examples at the Cité du Vitrail (City of Stained Glass).

The entry ticket to Cité du Vitrail (City of Stained Glass) also gives you access to the Apothicairerie de l’Hôtel Dieu-le-Compte (Apothecary of Dieu-le-Compte Hotel), located in the same building. This little museum recreates an 18th-century hospital pharmacy.

4. Église Sainte-Madeleine (Saint Madeleine Church)

Église Sainte-Madeleine (Saint Madeleine Church) is Troyes’ oldest church, with construction on the original building beginning in 1120 and the reconstruction that produced the current Gothic building beginning in about 1200.

The church’s most remarkable feature is the stone screen in the Flamboyant Gothic style created in the 16^th century. This screen or partition, entirely carved from stone, separates the nave, where the congregation sits, from the choir, where the clergy is stationed, and is huge—you can’t miss it.

5. Rue Champeaux (Champeaux Street)

The real star of Troyes is its medieval centre, so I’ve identified some of the most impressive streets to explore in this guide. Rue Champeaux is a major thoroughfare in Troyes and contains one of its most visible collections of half-timbered houses. It is also home to many bars and restaurants, as well as some prominent buildings, including Hôtel des Ursins (Ursins Hotel).

6. Rue Émile Zola (Émile Zola Street)

This historic street is, in my opinion, one of the prettiest in Troyes as it is lined with 17th-century half-timbered houses. It is also one of Troyes’ major commercial areas. Most of these buildings are reconstructions, as many of the original buildings were destroyed in a fire in 1524.

7. Place Maréchal Foch (Marshal Foch Square)

This square in the middle of Troyes is recognisable by its carousel and the Hôtel de Ville de Troyes (Troyes Town Hall). It connects to Rue Champeaux (Champeaux Road) and is one of the most beautiful squares in town thanks to the half-timbered houses surrounding it.

8. Ruelle des Chats (Cat Alley)

This extremely narrow medieval lane is as charming as it is mysterious! Built after the 1524 fire that destroyed much of Troyes, it takes you into the tiny space between two half-timbered houses.

If you look up, you’ll see that the facades of the two buildings actually touch, and that the upper floors project over the street, which was typical in medieval times and served as a way to enlarge the surface area of each home.

The name Ruelle des Chats (Cat Alley) comes from the fact that the lane is so narrow that cats were said to be able to cross from one side of the street to the other via the roofs. See if you can spot the carved head of a cat on one of the beams!

9. Musée Saint-Loup (Saint Loup Museum)

The Musée Saint-Loup (Saint Loup Museum) is Troyes’ museum of fine arts and archaeology, and occupies the building of the former Abbaye Saint-Loup (Saint Loup Abbey), hence the name. Other than artwork dating from the Middle Ages to the 19^th century and archaeological artefacts, it also has a natural history section with a collection of animal specimens.

10. Hôtel de Vauluisant (Vauluisant Hotel)

This private mansion is home to two museums—the Musée de la Renaissance en Champagne (Museum of the Renaissance in Champagne), which contains artwork and artefacts from the Renaissance period, and the Musée de la Maille, mode et industrie (Museum of Knitwear, Fashion and Industry), which sheds light on textile arts in Troyes.

11. Maison de l’Outil et de la Pensée Ouvrière (House of the Tool and Workers’ Thought)

Located in the beautiful Hôtel de Maury (Maury Hotel) building, the Maison de l’Outil et de la Pensée Ouvrière (House of the Tool and Workers’ Thought) is dedicated to traditional craftsmanship and tools used by artisans dating from the 17^th to 19^th centuries. You can learn more about leathercraft, ironworking or crafts involving animals and minerals.

12. Hôtel Juvénal des Ursins (Juvénal des Ursins Hotel)

This Renaissance mansion has been the property of a wealthy family since the 15^th century, and occupies a prominent location on the Rue Champeaux (Champeaux Street). It was built from stone after the 1524 fire. Today, there is a cocktail bar on the ground floor that enables you to view part of the interior.

13. Jardin Juvénal des Ursins (Juvénal des Ursins Garden)

Even if you decide not to visit the cocktail bar at the Hôtel Juvénal des Ursins (Juvénal des Ursins Hotel), the charming garden of the property is actually open to the public for free. You can access it from the rear of the property via Ruelle des Chats (Cat Alley).

14. Hôtel du Petit Louvre (Little Louvre Hotel)

Visible from the road thanks to its turret, this medieval townhouse served as accommodation for the canons in the 13^th century. In addition, it lodged many famous people, including Joan of Arc in 1429.

Although the building is not open to the public, you can enter the courtyard of the property to admire the 16th-century half-timbered house decorated with figures. The turret was once part of the ancient fortification and likely dates back to antiquity, although the current structure is a reconstruction.

15. Église Saint-Nizier (Saint Nizier Church)

This church dates back to the 16^th century, with some of its stained-glass windows dating back to as early as 1505. But its most distinctive feature is its colourful tiled roof, built in a style that’s strongly associated with Burgundy.

16. Maison Rachi à Troyes (Rachi House in Troyes)

The Maison Rachi à Troyes (Rachi House in Troyes) is dedicated to Troyes’ Jewish community and retraces its history from the medieval period. It is actually located in the synagogue of Troyes, enabling you to explore the place of worship in tandem with the exhibition.

17. Place de la Libération (Liberation Square)

This is one of Troyes’ major public squares, and serves as a junction between the parts of the city on each bank of the Canal du Trévois (Trévois Canal). Built on the site of a former cemetery and church, the square is now home to an urban garden with a fountain.

18. Place du Marché au Pain (Bread Market Square)

This square gets its name from the bakers who set up shop in the area in the 17^th century, but it is actually much older than that. The foires de Champagne (Champagne fairs) were held here during the 12^th and 13^th centuries. They were one of medieval Europe’s most important trade fairs, in which all sorts of textiles, spices, furs and leather were sold.

19. Église Saint-Jean-au-Marché (Church of Saint Jean at the Market)

This church is located at Place du Marché au Pain (Bread Market Square), and the current Gothic building dates back to the 13^th century. It stood at the heart of the medieval foires de Champagne (Champagne fairs), and was also where Henry V of England married Catherine de Valois, daughter of King Charles VI of France.

20. Hôtel de Marisy (Marisy Hotel)

This 16th-century private mansion was constructed by the city’s mayor at the time. Its most striking feature is its Renaissance-style turret, covered in intricate decorative elements, which overlooks the intersection of two roads.

21. Marché des Halles (Troyes Market)

Like many French cities, Troyes has its own central market. Troyes’ market hall was inspired by Les Halles de Paris. Today, it houses about 35 stalls selling produce, and is a good place to sample local food products and buy souvenirs.

22. Jardin des Innocents (Garden of the Innocents)

This little haven of greenery occupies the site of an old cemetery next to the Église Sainte-Madeleine (Saint Madeleine Church), and enables visitors to appreciate one of the outer walls of the church, as well as enjoy the medieval-inspired garden.

23. Musée d’Art Moderne (Museum of Modern Art)

While the Musée Saint-Loup (Saint Loup Museum) is home to artwork from up to the 19^th century, the Musée d’Art Moderne (Modern Art Museum), which is housed in the former episcopal palace, exhibits modern and contemporary art.

24. Quai de la Fontaine (Quay of the Fountain)

This quay runs along the Canal du Trévois (Trévois Canal), and is one of the city’s best-loved waterfront areas.

25. La ribambelle joyeuse (The Joyous Bunch)

Located at Quai de la Fontaine (Quay of the Fountain), this hilarious group of sculptures by Tom Frantzen features a panoply of strange and wacky figures. Look closely and you’ll spot a duck in a snorkelling mask, a penguin in a cap and other lovable characters.

26. La jeune fille qui donne un baiser (The Young Girl Who Gives a Kiss)

This iconic sculpture of a young girl puckering up for a kiss on the corner of Rue Clemenceau and Quai de Dampierre has appeared in countless selfies. Sculpted by Dutch artist Sjer Jacobs, it is a reproduction of one of his previous works, named Sofia and located in Middelburg in the Netherlands.

27. Attendez-moi (Wait for Me)

This sculpture by Tom Frantzen of a dog chasing a flock of birds displays the same irreverent spirit as his other work, La Ribambelle Joyeuse (The Joyous Bunch). It is located at Quai de Dampierre by the bridge connecting to Rue de la Cité.

28. Le Coeur de Troyes (The Heart of Troyes)

This large sculpture of a heart on Quai des Comtes de Champagne, made of stainless steel, lights up at night and changes colour.

29. Souffle de vie (Breath of Life)

Located at Place Langevin, this sculpture of a big-haired girl is by French artist Valérie Hadida, and was inspired by the statue of The Little Mermaid in Copenhagen. The artist is known for her sculptures of girls with hair blowing in the wind.

30. Maison du Dauphin (House of the Dauphin)

This lopsided, bright yellow medieval house at 32 Rue Kléber is one of the most atmospheric buildings in Troyes, and was spared by the 1524 fire. The draper-weaver who lived in the house is said to have supplied textiles to the Dauphin of France, the son of King François I, whose coat of arms is carved into a pillar in a corner of the house’s façade.

31. Square des Trois Godets (Square of the Three Pots)

This romantic little square is one of the most picturesque in Troyes, and consists of a small garden flanked on one side by colourful half-timbered houses mostly from the 17^th century, and the apse of the cathedral on the other.

32. Le Cellier Saint Pierre (The Saint Pierre Cellar)

This distillery, housed in a lovely historic building that was once used in the administration of the cathedral’s construction, specialises in the production of prunelle de Troyes (Troyes sloe brandy) liqueur.

33. Église Saint-Pantaléon (Saint Pantaléon Church)

This church is located just across the road from Hôtel de Vauluisant (Vauluisant Hotel). The stone building was built in the 16^th century but then destroyed by the 1524 fire almost immediately after completion. Reconstruction commenced a few years later.

34. Place Jean Jaurès (Jean Jaurès Square)

This elongated square is marked by the Bourse du Travail (Trade Union Centre), and surrounded by 16th-century half-timbered houses. Cereals were traded in the square in medieval times, which gave rise to the construction of inns and hotels.

35. Église Notre-Dame des Trévois (Church of our Lady of Trévois)

This church dates back to the 20^th century and is thus much more recent than most of Troyes’ other churches. It is worthwhile checking out the inside of the church to see its use of polychrome brickwork, which produces interesting motifs.

36. Passages Centre d’Art Contemporain (Passages Centre of Contemporary Art)

This is an art centre that holds regular exhibitions, located in a cosy, inviting house near the train station. They also organise activities such as workshops and talks. Entry is free.

37. Parc des Moulins (Park of the Mills)

This lovely park is one of Troyes’ biggest green spaces. Other than numerous gardens and walking paths, it is also home to the Maison des Maraîachers (House of the Market Gardeners), which organises events and activities throughout the year.

Day trips from Troyes

• Troyes is only a 1.5-hour train ride from Paris.
• If you would like to explore more destinations in the department of Aube, Nogent-sur-Seine and Bar-sur-Aube are reachable by train from Troyes in about half an hour.
• Reims, the largest city in Champagne, is accessible by train from Troyes in about 1.5 hours, or by car in about 2 hours.